Cold Chinese Sesame Noodles

Who can resist the deep earthy flavor of sesame noodles? Perfect for summer, they’re cooling, filling, and easy to make. Probably Szechuan in origin, this dish became very popular in New York City around the 1960’s as Chinese chefs, fleeing Mao’s tyrannical rule, began opening restaurants all over town. These noodles have since become a mainstay in the city’s cuisine.

Here are a few tips for you. Anything but Chinese egg noodles, (NOT spaghetti or udon) should be considered heresy. The noodles need to be long, wavy, and posses the right chewiness. Just follow the directions on the package and you’ll have the perfect vehicle for the sesame sauce. They’re available everywhere and very inexpensive. If you are fortunate enough to live near a Chinatown, visit a market there and buy them fresh. Dried noodles are perfectly acceptable.

The sesame flavor comes from sesame paste, or tahini. I prefer Joyva  Sesame Tahini. It has a rich, luxurious consistency and the perfect nutty sesame taste. Joyva is pure and consists of nothing but ground sesame seeds. No matter which tahini you use, be sure to mix it very well with a whisk before using it. Tahini without emulsifiers tends to separate. My experiences with Chinese sesame pastes have not been good and I’ve found them to be heavy, oily, and not especially fresh by the time they arrive here to go on the shelf. If you use them, proceed with caution. 

The slight heat in the sauce comes from Chinese chili paste. For balance, I like to use Guilin Chili Paste. It has a bit of heat that’s offset by a little sweetness. If you want a hotter palette, use your Chinese chili paste of preference or even sambal olek.

Garnishing is free-form and dictated by your taste. Julienned cucumber or daikon radish, sliced scallions, toasted peanuts, and chopped cilantro are all fair game.

So without further ado, here’s the recipe. Enjoy!

2 Cloves Garlic, Minced

3 Tbs. Joyva Sesame Paste, Mixed Well 

1 Tbs. Toasted Sesame Oil

1 Tbs. Soy Sauce or Tamari

2 Tbs. Shaoxing Cooking Wine

1 Tbs. Rice Vinegar or Black Vinegar

1 tsp. Brown Sugar

1 tsp. Guilin Chili Paste (or to taste)

Pinch Chinese Five-Spice Powder

1 Scallion, Sliced

½ C. Water

1 lb. Chinese Egg Noodles

2 Scallions, Sliced Thin

¼ C. Unsalted Roasted Peanuts

1.Combine the garlic, sesame paste, sesame oil, soy sauce, rice wine, rice vinegar, sugar, chili paste, five-spice powder, scallion, and water in a food processor. Process smooth. Pour into a large mixing bowl.

2.Cook the noodles, drain, and mix with the sauce. Chill for at least 1 hour.

3.Top with the scallions and peanuts.　

Serves 6

(Photograph by Paul Thompson)