Ports of Call

Destination: Grand Junction, Colorado.

When I first went to Grand Junction for the Colorado Mountain Winefest, somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 years ago, I had no idea it’d become a haven from the nearly constant whirl of Denver. I thought of it as a quaint town on the western slope with a few good restaurants, some gorgeous scenery, and more than its share of good wine. But then something slightly remarkable happened; I spent a chilly February non-Winefest weekend there on a solo trip and discovered an entirely new place! There were dinner reservations to be had, seats at the bars, and very affordable hotel rooms. As the pace slowed down so did I, which was precisely the reason I was there. I could feel the tension gradually slipping away with every step as I meandered up and down Main Street (THE main street in Grand Junction, its Old Town, which has now become more new than old). On a snowy afternoon I sat reading a book in Carlson Vinyard’s tasing room, soaking up the local vibe, soaking up some local wine, and chatting with a few of the local folks. Great vibe, great wine, and great folks. I knew I’d be back.

And I have been back for weekend getaways many times. I’d like to introduce you to a few of my favorite spots.

My first stop is invariably Carlson Vineyards downtown tasting room (545 Main St.). Spacious, bright, and inviting, you can’t help but feel a wash of calm come over you when you step in. The staff will make you feel right at home, knowledgeably navigating you towards a full tasting or just a glass (make it two). I’m proud to say I know them all by name, and they make spending time here incredibly enjoyable. You’ll find local art on the walls as well as some shelves stocked with oenophilia and local artisanal items. If it’s your first time, I recommend a tasting selected from their extensive list, truly something, or several somethings, for every preference. I wouldn’t miss the Exodus (Blaufränkisch) and Terra (blend of Blaufränkisch and Petite Sirah). As a bonus, Carlson donates some of the proceeds from selected wines back to the community. The main winery is located in Palisade (461 35 Road), a short hop from Grand Junction, and has a huge outdoor seating area that’s perfect when the weather’s cooperative.

Next stop is 626 on Rood (626 Rood Ave.), a sophisticated American eatery located just a block off the main drag. What first drew me there were the vegetarian selections on the menu, not always easy to find in a city the size of Grand Junction (interesting selections to be clear, anyone can sub a Garden Burger for hamburger), and the menu’s just gotten better over the years. Not to miss is the Coconut Curry. I expected the taste profile to tilt towards Thai, but found it more of a Thai-Indian hybrid, thick and rich and packed with flavor. On the bottom of the dish you’ll find pan-toasted red lentils which impart an almost tandoori smokiness. On the top, nori-infused tofu “scallops” grilled to perfection which pair beautifully with the curry. In the middle, a pop of deep sweetness provided by braised peach slices, peaches being one of the most prominent and justifiably popular fruits grown around the area. The dish eats beautifully, but I have to admit I’d kill for a side of jasmine rice to sop up the curry when all the other ingredients are gone. I made do by scraping up as much of it as I could with my fork instead of resorting to licking the bowl clean. Rice or not, I’ll have this again and again when I’m in town. In addition to some of the most creative cooking in the Grand Valley, you’ll find top-notch cocktails and an ever changing wine list, as well as fantastically indulgent desserts. 626 is another place with an outstanding staff, welcoming and able to enjoy a few words with each customer even on the busiest nights.

There are a slew of breakfast spots around the downtown area, and after trying most of them I find myself returning to Cafe Sol (420 Main St.) over and over again. What’s to like? Try the breakfast sandwich; Melted Cheddar, avocado, and a perfectly runny fried egg enrobed in a croissant, accompanied by a pile of outstanding rosemary roasted potatoes and a fine mocha. I suggest eating the sandwich with a knife and fork after wearing a small portion of the yolk on my cuff. Perfectly runny eggs come with inherent risks, after all. The atmosphere’s quiet and relaxed, the service is friendly and relaxed. Everyone’s cool and unassumingly hip. Here’s a place to duck into, place your order, grab a table, and crack open a book. Slow it all down. Shed the chill of a winter’s morning. Wait for your coffee and food. You’ll be rewarded.

For more information about Grand Junction, head over to Visit Grand Junction and explore the wide range of activities the area has to offer. I hope I see you there sometime!